![]() ![]() So I need an additional 7% added to the Amps to account for voltage drop. Voltage drop: At 100' we add 20% to the Amps. So why is everything else online (besides that linked article) saying that 4 AWG is good for 100 Amps?īy my calculations, I would need 1 AWG. Ok, that makes sense.Īnd I would think it still applies to my new 100 Amp branch circuit. According to the wire gauge chart that the article references, 12 AWG is good for 25 Amps at 75c.Ģ5 Amps x 80% = 20 Amps which is the breaker size used for 12 AWG wire. (NEC 220-2)"Īnd this is the wire gauge chart the article uses: Īn example that I am more familiar with is a 20 Amp branch circuit that uses 12 AWG wire. But I found a great article explaining the NEC requirement for loading a branch circuit that states: "Maximum loading for any branch circuit is 80% of the rating of the circuit for ampacity of wire for any load. Many people say using 4 AWG wire is fine. You will find two charts further on 1st one if for a 3 allowable voltage drop, and the 2nd one is for a 10 allowable voltage drop. In doing research online, I find conflicting information on the correct gauge of wire to use. We have calculated wire gauges for 125 amp service at 0-500 distance away from the source and for 12V, 120V, and 220V voltages. So, you could get by with a 30 amp breaker. Do you size for the fuses, or for the disconnect I think you size for the fuses, but I had someone say they were sizing for the full disconnect potential (the total 150) even though the fuses prevent the load. Using a 30-amp breaker, 80 of the amps are 24 running amps. So I have a fused disconnect on a piece of equipment. Both the wire and breaker size fall within the parameters outlined above. ![]() My current main panel will be replaced with a service disconnect 100 Amp breaker and then my new "main" panel (now technically a sub panel) will be fed with SER cable from the service disconnect panel. Based on the above chart, this 3-ton air conditioner unit requires an 8-gauge wire and a maximum size of 35 amp circuit breaker. I am moving my main panel to a more central location that is more accessible and easier to work on. Suggesting the burning scrap wire to remove the insulation will result in a ban. Do not post encouraging or mocking suicide, mental illness, or drug use.Ħ. No illegal, unethical, or disturbing subject matter. Example: Blogs, articles, news sites, YouTube channels, items for sale, ect.ĥ. No incorrect, unsafe, or hazardous informationīlatant incorrect information or hazardous advice will result with a ban Adhere to the Reddiquette.ĭO NOT post any personal information of any kind. Civil disagreements can happen, but insults should not. No personal attacks on anyone at any timeīe polite and respectful in your exchanges. What kind of receptacle is it? If it is an ordinary 15- or 20-amp duplex receptacle, then yes, you'll probably find it hard to wire satisfactorily with #8.After a period of inactivity, this subreddit is under construction and will be available to the public shortly. Without knowing more of the specifics, you almost certainly need conduit there instead of direct-burial cable. If you're only actually drawing 30-amps, then so what?įinally, I doubt seriously that the 8/2UF run near the pool meets code. DIHOOL DC 100 Amp Breaker Outdoor Disconnect, Miniature Circuit Breaker for Solar Panel 400V. If minimizing voltage drop was your objective in selecting #6 for a 30-amp feeder, using a larger breaker doesn't affect that. Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. (For aluminum, then 40-amp or 50-amp.) If you want to reduce the amount of available power elsewhere, leave that "job" up to the breakers protecting the branch circuits at the subpanel. Of course, youll have to have cable from the disconnect to both panels. If it's copper, a 50-amp or 60-amp double pole breaker is what you want for that purpose. disconnect and correct size cabling to the 100A panel and add a 100A sub panel. The purpose of the breaker at your main panel is to protect the #6AWG wire. Unless that panel can't handle more than 30 amps, it'd be better simply to increase size of the breaker. It's not a great solution, but it's better than shaving the skinned tails of the conductors. Secondly, why 30-amp breaker(s)? Is it because the subpanel is rated for only 30 amps? If so, your best option may be to pigtail a short length of #8 or #10 in the main panel enclosure. (I may have misunderstood what you meant by two breakers, but just wanted to make sure!)Ģ. It is potentially dangerous to use two independent breakers that are not designed to trip simultaneously because one pole will remain hot even after the other trips. Why do you have two breakers? If your run is to feed a subpanel, you should have one two-pole breaker, not two separate breakers. A couple of points right out of the chute:ġ. ![]()
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